Our Grand Canyon Rim to Rim Backpack

June 21 to 23, 1999

Overview: We flew to Phoenix, AX to hike the Grand Canyon rim to rim. We got to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon around 8:30 am on Sun. June 20. We spent the morning re-visiting the sites on West Rim drive via the shuttle. We had lunch in the Yahvapi cafeteria and then met the Transcanyon Shuttle at Bright Angel lodge. Although the Grand Canyon is only about 12 miles wide as a bird flies, to drive from the South Rim to the North Rim is about 220 miles and takes 4.5-5 hours. You have to drive around the east end of the canyon, its even farther if you try to drive around the west end. We spent the night at the Grand Canyon Lodge.
June 21 - The adventure begins: Our shuttle driver gave us a lift to the North Kaibab trailhead and took our "starting out" picture. We started down at 6:05 am. Our 7 mile hike had about a 3000 foot vertical drop and took us 6 hours. We got to Cottonwood Campground at noon having eaten a light lunch on the trail. While it was cool at the top (probably low 60's), it was warm at Cottonwood, ~105°F. We spent the rest of the day lying in the shade or sitting with our feet in Bright Angel Creek. We saw a wild turkey and a grand canyon rattlesnake (not too close) at the campground.
June 22 - We slept in until 5:30 and were on the trail by 6:30. We took the side trail to Rainbow Falls. It felt like a different world back then. Then on to Bright Angel Campground. Excluding the trip to the falls, it was 7 miles and an 1800 foot vertical drop. We got to Phantom Ranch for a cold lemonade with ice cubes at 10:30 am. After relaxing in the canteen (air conditioned) for a while we picked out our campsite and played in the creek. After lunch we walked over to the black suspension bridge over the Colorado River. Then, wrote postcards for mule delivery and walked the 2 mile river loop. It was warm again (~105 in the shade, ~115 in the sun). Later in the afternoon we went back to the Canteen for another lemonade. Another lazy day! We went to the evening ranger program and heard about Grand Canyon Geology (limestone, sandstone, shist and shale-you have to identify by shape and reflectivity, all four types of rock can be a variety of colors!) and wildlife. The ranger was interesting and humorous. We also waved to the sunset photographers up at one of the points. One woman with binoculars said they waved back.
June 23 - My wife's Birthday. We were up at 3:45 and on the trail by 4:30 am to beat the heat. Gave my wife her birthday cards at the first break around 5:15- it was light enough to read them then. Reached Indian Gardens, the halfway point (4.5 miles, 1500 vertical feet up) at 7:30 am. We met another birthday hiker (13th) there. Only 4.5 miles and 3000 vertical feet to go. On to the next major landmark, the 3 mile rest house, arriving around 9 am. We rested and refilled our water bottles. It started getting harder at that point and we took a full half hour rest and drank a half gallon of Gatorade at the 1.5 mile rest house. We headed on out to the top at 11 am taking our time and resting each time we found shade. Delightfully there was still shade. We were still enjoying the view and the hike! Reached the top at 12:30 pm. Found a family to take our picture with all 3 cameras. Rested most of the rest of the day. Did go out to Indian Watchtower on the East Rim Drive and look across the land we crossed on the transcanyon shuttle.


Starting the trip: Top of North Rim

Going down from North Rim

Ribbon Falls

Shadows and light!

Cooling off!

Silver bridge over the Colorado

Looking up from Indian Gardens

Ending the trip: Top of South Rim


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