Injector Swap Pictures - Text and more pics to follow later. DISCLAIMER: This
is not intended to be a complete description of this process. Things like Disconnect
the battery cables and don't smoke are assumed here. Get a GM manual or someone qualified
to help you. Keep 2 Fire Extinguishers near you at all times. the last 2/3 of the second
fire extinguisher should be used to help you and others ESCAPE a fire.. not to put it out.
Remove upper plenum bolts. TAPE the torx to the extension - save headaches.
Take the Throttlebody stuff off of it. Nitrous-Oxide connector optional ;-)
Take the stuff off the drivers side of the throttlebody. you have to open the throttle all the way to get the throttle cable end out.
Next take off the large vacuum line at the rear (drivers side) and lift the plenum up slightly, then take off
the electrical connector from the manifold temp sensor. Make sure you didnt miss anything and lift the upper plenum off.
The fuel rail SPLITS IN HALF - no need to take runners off! 3 torx head bolts
need to be removed and there are rubber O rings inside. Replace them for another 200k miles of service.
Watch out not to get any of the green paint inside the fuel rail!
Rotate the intector clips (top, hard to see) to remove them from the rail
Rotate the rail to get the last 2 drivers side injectors off.
The number 2 injector TOUCHES the runners when you use LARGE TUBE RUNNERS so you have to
shave a bit of the paint and aluminum off of the side of the injector. Many people have installed these
and thought they messed up their motor - the ticking injector sound is amplified 10 times. Also, when using
an aftermarket lower intake, the bosses that the fuel rail screws thread into may be a bit shorter than the factory lower intake...
you must not squash the injectors down too hard. If you install the fuel rail and tighten it down, the injectors should still be able to be twisted
in place. If they are locked tight, you will hear a tapping sound when you start the motor and you'll think something is very broken. Use a small washer between the
fuel rail and the lower intake fuel-rail bosses and the ticking will go away. let the injectors 'float' on the rubber rings.. don't smash them down.
You'll need a new set of runner gaskets. When you put things back together, screw ALL 8 plenum bolts
in at least 4 full turns by HAND before using a wrench. Strip one of these and you'll have a hard time
getting a seal. A high idle is a sign of a vacuum leak. spray carb cleaner around the suspected
leak area and note any idle changes. While you have the upper intake off you might as well grind out
the EGR bump and open the runner ports up some. There are pics of that somewhere on my site.
89 TPI-350 22# injector compared W/SVO 24# (length) -SVO is shorter from o-ring to o-ring. No worries.
Note that the top-clip slot (where the metal tab is on the green 22# 5.7 injector) when the metal clip is
transferred from the old to the new injector, will cause the TOP o-ring of the new injector to sit
MORE SHALLOW inside the fuel rail. The bottom ring seats at the regular depth into the bosses.
22# injector TIP compared W/SVO - SVO penetrates deeper... but is same as TPI 305 19#.
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