Some pictures taken when troubleshooting some problems..

Click on any image below for an enlargement (~500K) image.


Bent Push Rod


Cyl #5 Exhaust push rod bent after contacting center intake bolt. Happened after installing larger cam and 1.6 RRs.


Push Rod bent/scored when contacted by intake bolt


"Long" centerbolts. (Note head-gasket hole on #5 exh is "oval"..)


"Long" centerbolts.


Lifter from Exh #5.. "Looks" ok...


Lifter from Exh #5.. "Looks" ok...


Pre-lubing of new lifter for Exh #5. M&M tube makes a nice, clean job of the pre-lubing


Pre-lubing of new lifter for Exh #5. Tube is filled with oil and new lifter. Push Rod is used to pump-up and prime new lifter with oil


"Ticking" noise


Have a constant ticking noise from center of motor. Sounds like metal-metal, though a metal pipe tucked in your ear resting on an injector sounds like injector ticking making the noise?

Found one intake gasket skewed offset and injectors touching the gasket. This could possibly amplify the noise, propagating thru the metal heads/intake?


Skewed intake gasket shown thru injector bungs (#2 and #4)


Skewed intake gasket shown thru injector bungs (#6 and #8)


Closeup of skewed intake gasket shown thru injector bung (#8)


Skewed intake gasket, ports #6 and #8


Skewed intake gasket, ports #2 and #4


Rear Wheels hard to turn


After having the rear rebuilt with new axles, new bearings, new Auburn carrier, and new 3.73 gears (3.23 stock), I found that the rear wheels were very hard to turn by hand. I put a torque wrench on one lug nut and turn it down until it clicked-out. I found it took 30 ft-lbs of torque to rotate the wheels.

After taking off the P-side wheel and brake caliper, I found that the caliper was put on skewed, causing the rotor to rub against the axle frame. You can see the part of the frame that was rubbing in the picture below. Its the part that's closest to the inside of the rotor


Passenger-side rear brake rotor/caliper.